West 46th Street Rises as a Dining Destination

Today, West 46th Street is a mini-mecca of flavors, boasting a range of foodie experiences. But, as little as five years ago, it seemed more like a thoroughfare that led residents out of the neighborhood to dine elsewhere. 

Since then, several great cafes and bistros have hit the Southwest scene and set up shop on 46th Street between Nicollet and Bryant Avenues.

Longtime Lynnhurst resident Christine Walker explained, "I love my new neighbors. After living in the neighborhood for twenty years, I'm finally within walking distance of the most charming eateries in town."

So in the interest of keeping the street as a dining destination, I present a brief rundown of its many edible charms. It's selfish, really, as I'd like to put the days of bodegas and fast food firmly behind us. Consider it a stroll down the now food-friendly street.

opened in early 2008 on the site of an old Kentucky Fried Chicken just north of 46th Street on Nicollet Avenue. Chef Juan Juarez Garcia's Mexican-Italian blend of cooking cultures and the dining room's enjoyable atmosphere have been a hit with the 'hood. Housemade tortillas and pasta, organic wine and beer and tasty entrees like his sea bass topped with a pumpkin seed sauce, keep the regulars returning.

"We chose this location because I live in the neighborhood," said Juarez. "We wanted people not to have to go downtown. And, this is a good place for a first business that is small and independent." He said about 70% of his customers are locals.
For something a bit more casual, belly up to , which opened in 2009 at Grand Avenue. A revamp this year brought in Chef Chad Reilander and former Husker-Du'er Greg Norton. With guidance from owners/sisters Molly Hansen and Samantha Loesch, they keep the place knee-deep in its trademark grown-up hipster vibe.

Kings' menu has small and big "bites" paired with an impressive brew and vino list and an eye toward Upper Midwest-sourced foods. This City Pages 2010 Best Wine Bar winner also hosts trivia night, DJ's, story hour and even a book club.

Across the street lies , run by Chef Hector Ruiz and his wife Erin Ungerman, pioneers of the 46th Street dining scene. The area called to them as early as 2005, when they signed the lease for the place.

"I grew up at 45th and Garfield, two blocks away," said Ungerman. "We always thought, what a great corner for a restaurant." With a lot of sweat equity, they finally opened their Latin Fusion place in May of 2007. They continue to serve guacamole, ceviche and other Mexican and South American favorites with what Ungerman calls a "tightened up menu" and a renewed committment to local foods.

Looking for more of a snack? How about a true Parisian pastry from , also on Grand Avenue. Renowned pastry chef John Kraus's cafe serves much-lauded and beautifully crafted treats, ice creams, baguettes, sandwiches and soups. But, be forewarned -- the cafe usually has long lines on weekend mornings. Nonetheless, the coconut rocher (their version of a macaroon) and the housemade coffee bourbon ice cream are worth the wait.

(formerly Java Jack's) has anchored West 46th Street for over a decade. Until about a month ago, it was a coffee house, but it's now offering lunch and dinner service as well. Owner Jerry Nelson told me, "We opened quietly but so far so good. We're very pleased. I'd say 60 - 70% of the business is from the neighborhood."

Jack's will continue to serve high-end coffee, in addition to fresh, local dishes from Chef Stephanie Hedrick from a short, but soon-to-be expanding menu that includes oven roasted chicken, handmade pastas, local cheese curds and balsamic short ribs.

"We're not trying to compete with , but we do have whole lot of food nerds back there in the kitchen," owner Nelson gushed about his staff.

And at Bryant Avenue, Guse Green Grocer rounds out 46th Street's hugely improved nosh profile. It came about because nobody suitable wanted to rent the space adjacent to . Owners Terry and Tom Thomson tried to find a good tenant, but had no luck.

"Somebody wanted to make it a cigarette and 3.2 beer shop. They obviously hadn't done their homework about the area," explained Tom Thomson.

Instead, the family created Guse Green Grocer and in January 2010 began selling Rustica baked goods, organic groceries, deli sandwiches and homemade soups. It was a welcome change to the neighborhood's landscape.

So these days, as you make your way on 46th Street, remember those poor folks at the turn of the new millenium treking north for fabulous vittles. Not anymore. Delightful options abound from Nicollet to Bryant -- which means that you don't have to go far to eat, drink and be merry. Simply step out on to Southwest Minneapolis' own little eat street.