In a city that has a hard time keeping good southern food restaurants—Northeast Minneapolis' Brasa aside—in business, food critic Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl is lauding Kingfield's own as possibly the best such place, "hiding, inside a bakery known primarily for its killer baguettes."
As Grumdahl explains:
I promptly ordered the catfish and Creole chicken—whoa.The catfish was so crisp the crust shattered when I touched it with my fork, the accompanying heap of collard greens was sensuously great, iron-y and lush and firm, thered beans and rice were even better, understated, tender, and powerfully flavorful. The chicken, called Nettie’s Hen, was extraordinary, salt roasted, the skin a mahogany brown, the flesh falling off the bone and so deeply flavorful it made me, as a pretty good roast-chicken cook, suddenly come down with pangs of chicken-wonder, and, I’m not ashamed to admit, a little chicken-envy.
For Sun Street dinner regulars, you probably know that the bakery/eatery hasn't always had a twang to their menu. Grumdahl explains the shop's evolution in her latest post at MSP Magazine—and blames it on the joint's two chefs. Read the full tale here.