Business & Tech

Previously Uneven Lynnhurst Restaurant Gets Glowing Review

The much-hyped Lynn on Bryant wins over Star Tribune food critic Rick Nelson.

So far, reviews of Lynnhurst's four-month old restaurant have come back a mixed bag.

Many laud certain dishes at the Lynn on Bryant, like its rustic apple tart or its breakfast sandwich. One Patch reader even said of his food "every bite was a slice of heaven."

At the same time, professional and amateur reviewers alike have called out the prices at a place that bills itself as a neighborhood restaurant and cited somewhat uneven service. 

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Count the Star Tribune's Rick Nelson among The Lynn's converts, however. In a 1,000-word review published Wednesday afternoon, he gushed compliments like a severed artery, cooing over everything from the restaurant's burger to the paint job. 

Chief among his compliments: Chef Peter Ireland and pastry chef Abby Boone are wizards at "reinvigorating the familiar," and at pleasing foodie vegetarians: 

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Man, this guy can cook. The menu is tightly focused. At dinner, it’s just six appetizers and as many entrees, which could feel limited, but doesn’t. What makes the Lynn such a remarkable dining experience is Ireland’s intrinsic ability to subtly manipulate and balance outcomes up and down the continuums of flavor and texture: bitter-sweet, tangy-mellow, crispy-silky; all masterfully exploited.

Eagle-eyed readers, though, will spot a tidbit in a sidebar that didn't make it into Nelson's main review, about the service experience: "Uneven, swerving from solicitous and knowledgeable to largely absent and tortoise-paced."

What's been your experience of the restaurant? How busy is it when you pay them a visit?

 


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