Sun Street Breads: The Best Southern Restaurant Around?
Kingfield eatery wins more plaudits.
In a city that has a hard time keeping good southern food restaurants—Northeast Minneapolis' Brasa aside—in business, food critic Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl is lauding Kingfield's own Sun Street Breads as possibly the best such place, "hiding, inside a bakery known primarily for its killer baguettes."
As Grumdahl explains:
I promptly ordered the catfish and Creole chicken—whoa.The catfish was so crisp the crust shattered when I touched it with my fork, the accompanying heap of collard greens was sensuously great, iron-y and lush and firm, thered beans and rice were even better, understated, tender, and powerfully flavorful. The chicken, called Nettie’s Hen, was extraordinary, salt roasted, the skin a mahogany brown, the flesh falling off the bone and so deeply flavorful it made me, as a pretty good roast-chicken cook, suddenly come down with pangs of chicken-wonder, and, I’m not ashamed to admit, a little chicken-envy.
For Sun Street dinner regulars, you probably know that the bakery/eatery hasn't always had a twang to their menu. Grumdahl explains the shop's evolution in her latest post at MSP Magazine—and blames it on the joint's two chefs. Read the full tale here.