Previously Uneven Lynnhurst Restaurant Gets Glowing Review
The much-hyped Lynn on Bryant wins over Star Tribune food critic Rick Nelson.
So far, reviews of Lynnhurst's four-month old restaurant have come back a mixed bag.
At the same time, professional and amateur reviewers alike have called out the prices at a place that bills itself as a neighborhood restaurant and cited somewhat uneven service.
Count the Star Tribune's Rick Nelson among The Lynn's converts, however. In a 1,000-word review published Wednesday afternoon, he gushed compliments like a severed artery, cooing over everything from the restaurant's burger to the paint job.
Chief among his compliments: Chef Peter Ireland and pastry chef Abby Boone are wizards at "reinvigorating the familiar," and at pleasing foodie vegetarians:
Man, this guy can cook. The menu is tightly focused. At dinner, it’s just six appetizers and as many entrees, which could feel limited, but doesn’t. What makes the Lynn such a remarkable dining experience is Ireland’s intrinsic ability to subtly manipulate and balance outcomes up and down the continuums of flavor and texture: bitter-sweet, tangy-mellow, crispy-silky; all masterfully exploited.
Eagle-eyed readers, though, will spot a tidbit in a sidebar that didn't make it into Nelson's main review, about the service experience: "Uneven, swerving from solicitous and knowledgeable to largely absent and tortoise-paced."
What's been your experience of the restaurant? How busy is it when you pay them a visit?